Vesuvius and its secret places.
Writing has always been more difficult than talking.
Writing remains imprinted, writing leaves a mark; for me, deciding to write involves focusing on one element and eventually focusing on that.
This is one of the reasons why love for wine has never diminished: there are endless topics and deepening them is a bit like traveling.
Having spent years around wine types so geographically distant to me has always kept meto really understanding what it means have a territory knowledge ; on the other hand, everyone can buy a bottle of French wine but few will have seriously drunk the wines of those vineyards.
While, instead, wine is absolutely and above all: earth, frowned fronts, dens of animals and an incredible cycle of lives that interact in unique microcosms.
Then when on instagram was born the Zombiwine poject , one morning in August I was in Campania, in the house of my childhood, I looked at Vesuvius and I felt a small emptiness inside me. I had to go there where I knew there were vineyards but I knew nothing about them: the lava called!
And I told myself:
Apart from that I do not like to call me an asshole.
It was all true: how do i define myrself a wine lover if i o not know the wines of my land? (living between two regions besides the Vesuvius I would also put Lazio).
So that day of August, while the people were on the beach with sweaty ass in the water, I was in a “Terra” in a vineyard in Boscotrecase in the company of Andrea Matrone.
With Andrea I had done in high school, but then we were so lost sight of that (thanks to the fact that in high school he had dreadlocks and now is ….differently blod ) at first, I shy, and though I had not recognized this my land winemaker instead he had recognize me and so he talk talk talk talking talking talking.
He spoke of his graduation in oenology and then having traveled the world in the vineyards of others; he spoke of the loneliness and melancholy of when he woke up alone in a land of fire or in a vineyard of memories and in that place there was not He (the volcano) with his black lava soil looking at us.
Vesuvius and its secret places
He told me of the fires and how that incredible volcano, almost unique ecosystem in the world, was sodomized daily by people who were so ignorant to don’t see the irreversible damagethat they did not only to others, but above all to themselves.
He spoke of the resources that the mountain had and about the desire to don’t to go away from this land so full of beauty as much as of Violence.
I was slowly starting to focus: I wanted to understand each other more.
I wanted to go beyond simple bars talking and, in my mind, give an emotional allocation to places and colors that I had completely forgotten and that instead allowed me to take those vineyards and make them become part of the story.
Vesuvius has two native vines (not just two but two main) Piedirosso or, in dialect:
Per e palumm (colombo foot)
that poetry that sounds magnificent: pigeon feet!
Called so because at the time of crushing, the wet stalks of red liquid look like the legs of the pigeons.
The paws of the pigeons: the poetry of ancient images recalled by men with a dug face.
The second vine is the Caprettone that plays in all the languages of the world: Caprettone.
As a kid the Caprettone was the symbol of the farmer’s wine, the very strong one who drank a glass and dropped it with his ass on the chair.
Caprettone: you say it and any thirty years of my generation will smile remembering at least an epoch-booze.
A turbid and precursory white wine of certain macerates that today are in fashion: a wine that looked like a girl with easy costumes; he went with everyone and broke his heart.
After the morning spent in the vineyard that afternoon of August (torrid as the desert) we went to the cellar, I could tell you to drink but it is not correct, I spent an afternoon to understand a point of view.
Drinking Lacryma Christi I have understood this doc, and it is not an easy doc since it is only in the last twenty years that slowly the adjective: “quantity” is becoming “quality”
White minerals and oily and red that could become elegant but certainly not breakthrough knockers.
Why do I say this?
My point of view is not only based on the fact that Cantine Matrone produces only 2 wines (for a total of 10,000 bottles, five white and five red -quality rather than quantity-) but the point of view that I needed to start to understand the way of working of the Vesuvian companies.
It’s been almost six months and I’m slowly understanding the incredible work done by shrewd people in an absolutely hostile territory and: my boys are heroes!
Do you want to know why?
Because while for thirty years the Etna’s wine are well publicized (and indeed have a certain mystery area that helps sales) Lacryma Christi is a doc that many people abroad know but very few can drink, and in Italy is the same shit!
In a Roma’s wine shop I heard from the owner, that many people think that Lacryma Christi is a sweet wine!
Try looking in your wine shop and then we’ll talk about it!
Indeed I think this my post may perhaps be the first thing that many people read about this wine area that still contains in itself a few producers!
I promised you a blog without too many data sheets and then I promise to tell you these wines in my own way.
Andrea is at the third harvest: his company is small but not improvised; one of its two vineyards has plants that look directly on the Gulf of Naples and the grapes grows taking the benign influence of the sea wind looking at Capri.
As I told you,
a unique microclimate.
The vineyards are old.
Andrea has bought some abandoned vineyards for themselves and they need an impressive amount of work.
Three handkerchiefs of land for a total of three hectares.
Even if our bald sprite is planting a new piedirosso to alberello portion (technical things like winemaker) his property needs above all a lot of work in the vineyard and this is stated in the concept: It must work hard.
In a few years I believe that his wines will be incredible; today they are heroic wines
Cantina Matrone Lacryma christi Bianco
Caprettone (80%), Falanghina (15%) and Coda di Volpe (5%).
This year the grapes were vinified all together with two days of maceration on the skins; I hope to get him to make a version with fifteen or twenty days of maceration-
Last year instead only the Caprettone was macerated.
A wine not to be served very cold in which, on a fresh acidity, in the distance one senses an amazing mineral and oily note: drink a bottle without problems given the almost totality of chemical additions and the rather low sulfur content.
When you have healthy grapes you can belong to the category of winemakers who do not want to be a little chemist, but who want to be an old winemaker (and I would add Halleluyah)
Cantina Matrone Lacrima Christi red
Piedirosso (75%), Sciascinoso (15%) and Aglianico (10%).
To date and in my opinion (confirmed by the Veronelli guide) it is his best wine.
Good aging ability for a wine with unripe tannins, but the boy will do and next year he will play with the number seven jersey.
Not a static nose and a vibrating sip: after six months of this wine I’m still not fed up (in fact almost almost I untap a tonight).
What problem does it have?
That can improve a lot with the work in the vineyard that must be done but has from its strength not to seem a chemical wine or with strange stuffs
It’s not sour or sour, but if you’re not careful, you’re a bit palatable; reason? Despite the mallolatical turning point for me is a wine (also seen the price) on which to invest put in the cellar and drink slowly.
I’m unbalanced: a wine that has perhaps twenty years of autonomy.
Well zombies of the horde: this is the end of the first article; how do you say?
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why did not I tell you that Andrea and I play blues together? Or why do we comment on the girls’ ass?
Because we are friends: this wine does! It helps to create friendships and honestly if I tell you everything now, then what will I write?
I go back to hunt some American tourist to devour: good hunting and the next bottle.